Mountaineering with the Obsidians
The Obsidians sponsor climbs of most major peaks in the Oregon Cascades
and some in Washington and California during each climbing season from April through November.
We are not a guide service but have skilled volunteer leaders from the community that share a
passion for bringing people to the mountains. The climbs we offer vary in difficulty from
‘walk-ups’ to technical rock, and snow climbs. The Obsidians provide ropes,
technical protection, and first aid supplies. We do not supply personal climbing gear.
Requirements
Participants are required to have basic mountaineering and outdoor skills,
appropriate personal gear and be in good physical condition. Even the easier climbs are still
strenuous, often with ascents of several thousand feet on summit day. Participants must be
prepared to carry group gear such as ropes or pickets in addition to their own personal
climbing and camping gear. The time commitment required for a climb ranges from one to several
days depending on the location and difficulty.
When a climb is listed on the Obsidian calendar, its level of difficulty will
be indicated. For non-technical climbs such as the south side of South Sister or Diamond Peak,
extensive mountaineering skills are not necessary but still require a level of fitness and basic
snow travel skills in order to participate. Technical climbs require ropes and technical climbing
skills such as proficiency in glacier travel and travelling on fixed lines. Examples of technical
climbs include Mount Hood and Mount Thielsen. In order to go on a technical climb participants
must have one of following:
- Completed a Basic Mountaineering course, (either offered by the Obsidians, or an equivalent
course offered by another organization)
- Have sufficient previous experience that the climb leader can judge your skill level for the
climb.
- Been recommended as skilled and fit for the intended climb by someone known and trusted by
the climb leader.
The party size on climbs is limited. Wilderness area restrictions limit the party
size to no more than twelve, and many leaders choose to limit the numbers to less than twelve,
depending on the route difficulty and other factors.
How to Sign up for a Climb
To sign up for a climb, check the schedule and read the general
description of the technical difficulty as well as the material above to ensure
you meet the requirements, go to our online signup system, accessible on our
home page. Climbs are generally posted
online three weeks before their scheduled dates.
Obsidian members can pre-register for a climb by contacting the listed climb
leader and ask to go on the climb. The same restrictions on signing up for a technical climb
applies to members. Contact information for leaders is found in the member directory. Members
pre-registering for climbs cannot sign up for simultaneous climbs as place holders and are
limited to pre-registering for 3 climbs a year. There is no limit on registering for climbs once
they go online for members and non-members alike.
Graduation climbs are for recent graduates of climb school so they can practice
their newly acquired skills. Recent climb school graduates who are members can pre-register.
Once the climb goes online then recent non-member graduates are given priority followed by
regular member and the public.
The climb leader has the final discretion on who to allow on the climb and may
limit participation of climbers or adjust the climb schedule based on experience of the individual,
the group, and climb conditions.
Let’s Climb!
The Chair of the Climbs Committee is Maryanne Reiter. She can be contacted by emailing
climbs@obsidians.org
Climbs Schedule
June
Diamond Pk
Mt Jefferson
Mt Thielsen
July
Middle Sister
Mt Thielsen
Mt Washington
August
Broken Top
Mt McLoughlin
Three Fingered Jack
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Climb—Diamond Peak - Graduation Climb—Saturday, June 10, 2023
Leader: Maryanne Reiter
This climb is intended for recent graduates of the Obsidians Climb School. We will ascend via the Pioneer Gulch route on the south to southwest side of the mountain. The climb is approximately 10 miles round trip with over 4000 ft of total elevation gain. As you prepare for this, think about hiking 4 Mount Pisgahs in a day
Climb—Mt Jefferson—Friday–Sunday, June 16–18, 2023
Leader: Danneille Harris
We will climb the West Rib route with a high camp at about 6800ft. High camp will likely be on snow. Jefferson is probably the toughest mountain in Oregon with significant hazards to individuals and the team. All potential team members will need prior approval from the trip leader. We also plan to do a scouting trip up to near high camp on June 10th. We will scout the approach and climbing route and possibly do a bit of pruning on the exit route.
Climb—Mt Thielsen—Saturday, June 24, 2023
Leader: Maryanne Reiter
We will be climbing the standard route on Mt. Thielsen. The route begins as a use trail up the scree and talus of the lower mountain, later becoming a class 3 scramble as the ridge steepens. The final climb up the summit pinnacle is a class 4, easy 5th class scramble on the only solid piece of rock on the mountain. We will have a fixed line rope for ascending and will descend on a rappel on the steep part. We will plan on doing the climb in 1 day from Eugene. However, those who wish to camp can meet us at the trail head in the early AM.
Climb—Middle Sister—Saturday, July 1, 2023
Leader: Trina Reiter
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Spring Climb School
Each spring the Obsidians and Eugene Mountain Rescue offer a course in Basic Mountaineering.
The emphasis of course is on the basic skills needed to climb safely with a group in a range of environments
from sport rock climbing to alpine mountaineering.
The course will prepare students to travel on steep rock and snow slopes and participate in Obsidian climbs.
This course is not meant to train people to lead groups but rather to be a safe team member.
We will not cover in detail the use of map and compass, weather and avalanche assessment, or crevasse rescue.
Climbing awards
The Obsidians have three climbing awards offered to members:
The Three Peaks Award is presented to members who have successfully
reached the summit of all three Sisters on scheduled Obsidian climbs.
The Ten Peaks Award is presented to members who have reached the
summits on Obsidian climbs of the ten major Oregon peaks: Mt. Hood, Mt. Jefferson,
the Three Sisters, Mt. Washington, Three Fingered Jack, Mt. McLoughlin, Mt. Thielsen, and
Diamond Peak.
The Ten Peaks Leader Award is presented to Obsidian members who have
led climbs of all Ten Major Peaks listed above.
Archived climb schedules
2001
2002
2003
2004
2005
2006
2007
2008
2009
2010
2011
2012
2013
2014
2015
2016
2017
2018
2019
2020
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