Past Activity

Broken Top

  • Start date: 09/17/2011

  • Start time: 12:00 AM

  • End date: 09/18/2011

  • End time: 11:59 PM

Description:

We'll be spending Saturday driving to the Green Lakes trailhead and following Fall Creek up to the gorgeous Green Lakes area. Here we'll likely skirt the west side of one of the lakes and continue about 500 feet of elevation higher towards the northwest ridge of Broken Top where we'll establish camp for the night. My favorite sunset in Oregon to date was witnessed right there! The totals for Saturday will be about 7 miles and 1700 feet of elevation gain.

Sunday we'll wake up bright and early and take the climbers trail up to the northwest ridge proper and climb towards the summit. Once we gain the 8-10' wall (the usual "crux"), I'd like to continue straight for the summit on some 5.5 to 5.6 rock (all roped up of course). If others don't feel comfortable with that, I'd be more than happy to take the normal traverse route to the summit (some exposure but very doable). Stellar summit views await us!! We'll descend, break camp, and head out to the trailhead. Totals for Sunday will be about 1.5 miles to the summit and 2200' gain with an additional 8.5 miles out to the cars.

  • Event Leader: Breslin Sean

  • Assistant Leader: Nelson Doug

  • Event category: Climbs

  • Area Type: Mountain

  • Departure Location: South Eugene High School, 19th & Patterson

  • Rating: Difficult

  • Roundtrip total drive miles: 260

  • Season: 2011

  • Permits Required:

  • Event Status: Passed

  • Supplies and Equipment Required: 10 essentails, one dinner, one breakfast, two lunches, various snacks, and appropriate clothing. For climbing gear, be sure to bring a helmet, climbing harness, 3 locking biners, and 3 prussik cords (short, medium, and long). Please be sure to bring a pack big enough to carry all of your own personal gear plus some group gear. If you plan to drive be sure to bring your Northwest Forest Pass for the trailhead.

  • participant prerequisites:

  • Conditions:

  • Total Distance: 17

  • Member Fees:

  • Elevation Gain: 3900

  • Non-Member Fees:

  • Committee: Climbs

  • Junior member fees:

Trip Report

Four very eager climbers found themselves at the Green Lakes Trailhead by 12pm. A beautiful day with a slight initial crisp to the air was very comfortable to hike in. By 3pm we found ourselves already at the natural spring above Green Lakes and spent the rest of the day reading and bouldering on what we dubbed the "White-Jones Route" in preparation for the next day's climb.
Bright and early at 6am the next day we had our bags packed and our headlamps on. The wind gradually began to pick up as we gained the northwest ridge. We continued scrambling up and into the cloud along the ridgeline where the rock gradually became wetter and the wind picked up. By the time we had progressed to the 15' "crux" wall, the rock was fairly wet but still doable. Two of us went straight up the wall and two circumvented to the left. We debated whether or not to go directly for the summit on the very exposed Class 4 scramble, but the dampness of the rock made us think that the circuitous but more typical "cat-walk" traverse to the right was a better idea. We all summited around 8:30am but the wind, cold, and damp convinced us to head directly back to camp! On the way back to camp the cloud remained over the mountain but the lower reaches began to clear. After packing up camp and making our way back to the Green Lakes Trail we spied a beautiful and completely cloud free Broken Top summit! Note to self...next time around take your time. The climbers were all in spectacular shape and halved the time that I had alotted for each stretch of the climb. Nice job Doug, Kevin, and Dalen!

Members & Guests signed-up & waitlisted

  • Number of spots on trip: 8
  • Number of spots available: 2
No. Status Full name Phone Transportation Needed? Trip Fee # Can Take?
1 Signed-Up Breslin, Sean 607-339-1816 N
2 Signed-Up Nelson, Doug 541-736-6076 N
3 Signed-Up Kornfeld, Jeffery 541-285-7657 N
4 Signed-Up Paskalev, Ivan 458-210-6633 N
5 Signed-Up Willhite, Dalen 406-570-4514 N
6 Signed-Up Jones, Kevin 541-968-7774 N