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Past Activity

Middle Sister

  • Start date: 05/12/2012

  • Start time: 12:00 AM

  • End date: 05/13/2012

  • End time: 11:59 PM

Description:

We will hike or ski into base camp on the east side of Middle Sister on Saturday. The camp will probably be on snow. We will climb Middle Sunday morning via the Hayden Glacier and north ridge.

  • Event Leader: Wayne Deeter

  • Event Leader Phone: 541-954-0924

  • Event Leader Email: wrd@deetour.net

  • Assistant Leader:

  • Event category: Climbs

  • Area Type: Mountain

  • Departure Location: South Eugene High School, 19th & Patterson

  • Rating:

  • Roundtrip total drive miles: 240

  • Season: 2012

  • Permits Required:

  • Event Status: Passed

  • Supplies and Equipment Required: Harness, helmet, ice ax, crampons & compat boots, 2 locking biners, 2 prusiks, belay-rap device (ATC), sunscreen & glasses, clothing for warm and cold temps, camp gear, 2 days + extra food, 3 litres water, snowshoes or skis.

  • participant prerequisites:

  • Conditions:

  • Total Distance: 18

  • Member Fees: —

  • Elevation Gain: 5300

  • Non-Member Fees: —

  • Committee: Climbs

  • Junior member fees: —

Trip Report

It was sunny and warm both days of the climb. I was the only one of the four who chose to use skis on the approach. The others just hiked in and carried their snowshoes. Ah, the corn snow near our camp made for excellent skiing!

We all agreed to start earlier than I had originally planned, so at 4:10am Sunday morning we started our climb. The firm snow meant that we could use crampons right from camp. The last quarter moon lighted our way‒no need for headlamps! We roped up at the base of the Hayden Glacier. Half way up the hogsback we stopped to watch the sunrise.

Mark chose to wait at the saddle while the rest of us climbed the north ridge. We summited a little after 8 but did not stay on top long due to the cold wind. We had great views though and could see all the way to Hood. The crampons were packed away back at the saddle as the snow was already getting soft. We made it back to camp by 10am.

The snowshoes which had been dead weight on the way in proved their worth on the way out‒the warm temperature had turned the snow to mush.