Trip Report

Left Eugene about 11 a.m. Saturday, June 26, 1976. Drove to about one mile below Cloud Cap Inn where the road was blocked by snow. Route was to Portland, then Hood River and south from Hood River to Cloud Cap. Hiked from the road head to a camp at Timberline at ¾ miles above Cloud Cap on the east Moraine of the Elliott Glacier.

Got up about l:30 a.m. and departed camp shortly before 2:30 a.m. Dropped from the Moraine on to Elliott Glacier and crossed the Glacier high, just below the major ice fall. There is a large amount of snow this year and the glacier crossing was very straight forward. Arrived at the Bergschrund at 6 a.m. and mounted the Bergschrund a little further to the west than on previous years. We then traversed eastward to rejoin normal route that bypasses Horseshoe Rocks on the east side. Arrived at the summit at 9:30 a.m. and descended the Cooper Spur, arriving at base camp at about 12:30.

This year, because of the abundance of snow, on the descent we were able to glissade down on to Elliott Glacier and travel as far as possible on the snow down the glacier before climbing the lateral Moraine and returning to camp. Weather for the climb was ideal and could only have been improved by a moon. We had no moon at all and the start was a little slow on that account. Flash-lights were helpful and are recommended for this route.

Timing of the climb, late June, was ideal because the snow both on the ascent and descent was very favorable.

Climbing with Jim Harrang, leader, were: Bert Ewing, Kevin Harrang, and Gary Kirk.