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Past Activity

Mt. Jefferson

  • Start date: 07/23/2011

  • Start time: 12:00 AM

  • End date: 07/25/2011

  • End time: 11:59 PM

Description:

On Saturday we will hike in via Woodpecker Ridge Trail and the PCT to Milk Creek, then ascend to camp at 6800'

Sunday, summit day, we will climb the West Rib to the base of the pinnacle, then ascend to the summit. We will then reverse our route and return to camp.

We may choose to hike back out to the cars either Sunday evening or Monday.

  • Event Leader: Wayne Deeter

  • Event Leader Phone: 541-954-0924

  • Event Leader Email: wrd@deetour.net

  • Assistant Leader:

  • Event category: Climbs

  • Area Type: Mountain

  • Departure Location: See Trip Description

  • Rating:

  • Roundtrip total drive miles: 200

  • Season: 2011

  • Permits Required:

  • Event Status: Passed

  • Supplies and Equipment Required: Harness, helmet, ice ax, crampon compatible boots and crampons (check the fit BEFORE leaving home), two locking carabiners, belay-rappel device (ATC), a couple prusik loops, sun screen, sun glasses, bug spray (deet). Overnight gear, 3 lunches, 2 breakfasts, 2 dinners, snacks for 3 days, 3 qts water.

  • participant prerequisites:

  • Conditions:

  • Total Distance: 12

  • Member Fees: —

  • Elevation Gain: 7000

  • Non-Member Fees: —

  • Committee: Climbs

  • Junior member fees: —

Trip Report

My original plan was to climb via the Whitewater Glacier. As the summit was still rimed up and Jeff Park was mostly snow covered I decided that we would climb the West Rib route instead.

We hiked in via the Woodpecker Trail and the PCT to snow-bound Milk Creek. Weird. Milk Creek was filled with snow about 20' deep, covered in places by a thin layer of mud. Two tenths of a mile up the creek we followed a faint climbers trail up to snow covered slopes and our camp at 6700'.

The next morning we started our climb in the dark. The rib was still in fairly good condition snow-wises. There were only a couple places where we had to scramble over rock. A rope was used to protect the traverse to the north side of the pinnacle. From there we scrambled up steep snow to a notch north of the usual ramp, then on the east side on easy but exposed rock to the summit.

After a short stay on top, admiring the views of distant peaks, valleys and lakes, and exchanging mutual congratulations, we reversed the route and hiked back down the rib to our camp. We were astonished by the amount of snow that had melted during our climb.

The second night was not quite as warm as the first, a bit breezy and slightly damp. In the morning we packed up and hiked back out to the cars.