Trip Report

The stoke of six recent climb school graduates was high Sunday morning at 3am, despite the forecast for snow showers and a wind chill of 9ºF above tree line. We set out from the parking lot at 4:15am. The trail was mostly covered in snow after the first mile, and the small burned area with the first significant switch-back proved to be a hazardous snow field with potential for deep holes around the fallen trees, but we made it through without a problem. The next leg of hiking before the intersection of the PCT was mostly covered in good snow, which allowed for a direct line to the ridge. We reached an elevation of approximately 7,500ft in 3 hours, and I decided to prepare for anything above tree line by adding our crampons, axes, hard shells, helmets and harnesses. This decision is unusual for this mountain at this elevation, but I thought it would be a wise choice given the limited experience of the group and potential for hazardous conditions above. If we needed a rope for anything, we would all be ready.

As we began moving again, the visibility fluctuated between 100m-300m. I explained to the group that if conditions worsened, we would find shelter and wait for improvements, or descend. Fortunately, the conditions did not deteriorate, and the wind was not persistent. So, the wind chill factor was seldom felt. However, the snow showers did pass frequently, but without much precipitation. For the most part, the snow on the ground was 4 inches of fluffy powder, with a few more inches of spring corn snow below it. I dug hasty pits as we proceeded, and found an obvious weak layer, but without much mass. Occasionally, we crossed a drift of deeper snow, but they were infrequent and on low angle terrain. So, I determined the risk for an avalanche to be negligible and avoidable on our route. As the ridge steepened, the snow became even thinner and we had to negotiate with the rocky terrain through shallow skiffs of powder. Everyone learned quickly what mixed climbing feels like, and they performed wonderfully! As we neared the dark and ominous summit pinnacle, excitement developed within the group, but a certain concern was also shared because of the snow cover on the rocks.

As we collected on chicken ledge, I prepared the gear and Sam gave me a belay. As I climbed the pinnacle, I had to scrape off several inches of powder snow from the ledges that had collected there in the previous 72 hours. Fortunately, the protection was good where it needed to be, and I found my way to the top. I tied webbing around the large boulder that everyone uses just below the summit, pulled up half the rope, tied it off, and welcomed a climber. Meanwhile, I rigged the other half of rope for rappel, and then tied it off and tossed it down so that two climbers could climb at once on independent strands. This strategy worked well to reduce overall time on the summit, which was especially important given the variable conditions. In one hour, everyone was on top and stoked beyond measure. Several people exclaimed that it was the hardest thing they had ever done.

During the time on the summit, the clouds receded and the winds were infrequent with 15mph gusts. The view was incredible even though we could only see the tops of clouds in the distance. The team took some incredible photos and we got out of there in good time.

Upon descent, we took our time negotiating through the uneven rocky terrain and powdery snow. We ate some food while removing our climbing gear and adjusting layers. The showers intensified with some small hail and greater breaks that allowed for several miles of visibility, albeit for brief periods. Everyone reached the cars around 5:30pm.

Overall, I was thoroughly impressed with the persistence and courage exhibited by everyone. This climb was no small task, and certainly a full-fledged mountaineering experience.