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Past Activity

Three Fingered Jack Climb

  • Start date: 08/02/2026

  • Start time: 12:00 AM

  • End date: 08/02/2026

  • End time: 11:59 PM

Description:

Three Fingered Jack is an alpine technical rock climb that requires 4th-class scrambling as well as lower 5th-class traversing and climbing on a fixed line. Expect loose rock and exposure. Participants must have acceptable experience - completion of climb school AND an alpine technical rock climb (Thielsen/Washington) or equivalent to register. 

The South Ridge of Three Fingered Jack begins with a five-mile approach on the Pacific Crest Trail, followed by a steep climber’s path that gains the south ridge of the peak. 

The first roped climbing begins at “the crawl” – a steep, exposed traverse. From there, walk along an exposed ridge for several minutes to reach the summit pinnacle. The cobblestone 5th-class "chimney" pitch is followed by boulders to the summit. 

  • Event Leader: Melanie Glock

  • Event Leader Phone: 541-844-9515

  • Event Leader Email: mellhall1975@gmail.com

  • Assistant Leader: Steve Davis

  • Event category: Climbs

  • Area Type: Mountain

  • Departure Location:

  • Rating: Difficult

  • Roundtrip total drive miles: 180

  • Season: 2026

  • Permits Required:

  • Event Status: Passed

  • Supplies and Equipment Required: Helmet, climbing harness, two locking carabiners, prusik loop, ATC, 3 litters of water, food for a day, bug repellent, sunscreen, sunglasses.

  • participant prerequisites: Participants must have successfully completed climb school AND an alpine rock climb similar to Thielsen/Washington (or equivalent experience). Participants must email Melanie at mellhall1975@gmail.com to confirm prerequisites if you haven't climbed with her.

  • Conditions:

  • Total Distance: 13

  • Member Fees: —

  • Elevation Gain: 3000'

  • Non-Member Fees: —

  • Committee: Climbs

  • Junior member fees: —

Trip Report

In excellent conditions, this team of climbers had an excellent day on Three Fingered Jack. Three first-time climbers, two fresh out of climb school, joined the 3FJ experienced crew, and a good time was had by all. We protected the crawl with a 70m rope and set another rope for the chimney climb. The team moved safely and efficiently through the exhilarating exposed sections, and all team members happily tagged the summit. Conversation was lively, spirits were high, and we feasted on excellent snacks.

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