Past Activity

Three Fingered Jack

  • Start date: 08/04/2012

  • Start time: 12:00 AM

  • End date: 08/04/2012

  • End time: 11:59 PM

Description:

Car camp at Santiam Pass PCT Trailhead Friday night. We’ll start out on the PCT at 4:30 AM and climb the standard south ridge route.

  • Event Leader: Brian Hamilton

  • Event Leader Phone: 541-343-6550

  • Event Leader Email: red.gray@comcast.net

  • Assistant Leader:

  • Event category: Climbs

  • Area Type: Mountain

  • Departure Location: South Eugene High School, 19th & Patterson

  • Rating: Difficult

  • Roundtrip total drive miles: 174

  • Season: 2012

  • Permits Required:

  • Event Status: Passed

  • Supplies and Equipment Required: Harness, helmet, belay/rappel device (ATC), (2) locking biners, (2) prusik loops, hiking boots; lunch & trail snacks; water (2 liters); clothing for all weather conditions, sun protection (hat, sunscreen), headlamp with fresh batteries

  • participant prerequisites:

  • Conditions:

  • Total Distance: 11

  • Member Fees: 3

  • Elevation Gain: 3000

  • Non-Member Fees: 15

  • Committee: Climbs

  • Junior member fees:

Trip Report

It was a very warm evening when we pulled into the parking lot at Santiam Pass PCT trailhead on Friday. We slept at the trailhead, but other climbers driving into the parking area and a bright, almost-full moon made sleep hard to come by for some of us. We awoke in time to see two other groups of climbers hit the trail before us and we were on our way at 4:20 AM. The first group ahead of us was slow to cross the “crawl” and we had to wait for the second group to cross before we roped up. We left one rope at the “crawl” and both of the other groups took advantage of it and tied into it with prusiks for their descent. We anchored our second rope from the base of the chimney to south end of the summit promontory. Each of our climbers was belayed out to the actual summit before returning and rappelling back down the chimney. There were strong winds all morning, but they died down in time for us to enjoy views from the summit. Lack of winds also brought out mosquitoes that attacked us as we crossed snow banks still covering the PCT for a quarter mile south of the climbers’ trail. A hot, dusty trek down the trail got us back to the trailhead by 4:15 PM.

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