Calendar

Past Activity

Three Fingered Jack Graduation

  • Start date: 08/20/2016

  • Start time: 12:00 AM

  • End date: 08/20/2016

  • End time: 11:59 PM

Description:

This climb is reserved for 2016 Climb School students. Others will be placed on the wait list. After August 10, the climb will be open to all qualified climbers.

Meet at Santiam Pass PCT Friday evening for car camping. We’ll start out on the PCT at 4:30 AM and climb the standard south ridge route. Meeting location and departure time from Eugene and carpool arrangements TBD. The first 4-1/2 miles of the approach follows the Pacific Crest Trail with an elevation gain of about 1,600'. The route then leaves the PCT and follows a climbers' trail to the south ridge. We'll follow the south ridge on loose volcanic rock until we get to "the Crawl", where we'll follow a fixed rope to get to the other side and then scramble to the bottom of the chimney to rope up again for the final summit push. We'll follow the same route on the descent with the exception of plunge-stepping down loose scree on the "scar" of the west slope of the mountain until we reach the PCT again.

  • Event Leader: Hamilton Brian

  • Assistant Leader: Hansen Marci

  • Event category: Climbs

  • Area Type: Mountain

  • Departure Location: See Trip Description

  • Rating:

  • Roundtrip total drive miles: 174

  • Season: 2016

  • Permits Required:

  • Event Status: Passed

  • Supplies and Equipment Required: Harness, helmet, belay/rappel device (ATC), (2) locking biners, (2) prusik loops, hiking boots; breakfast, lunch, & trail snacks; water (2 liters); clothing for all weather conditions; sun protection (hat, sunscreen, sunglasses); headlamp with fresh batteries; sleeping bag, pad, & shelter for sleeping at the trailhead. Optional, but recommended: Gaiters, hiking poles, handkerchief to cover nose & mouth for dusty trail on way out, mosquito repellant, ear plugs for sleeping at the trailhead parking area.

  • participant prerequisites:

  • Conditions:

  • Total Distance: 11

  • Member Fees: 3

  • Elevation Gain: 3000

  • Non-Member Fees: 15

  • Committee: Climbs

  • Junior member fees: —

Trip Report

Three Fingered Jack is a relatively easy climb, unlike the drudgery of climbing something like South Sister. We hiked in 5 miles on the fairly level Pacific Crest Trail until we reached the base of the mountain and then it’s just 1,600 feet elevation gain to reach the summit. However, Jack throws a lot of stuff at climbers, like loose rock and exposure to long drop-offs. There is enough exciting sections (some would say “scary”), that some climbers wondered why we protect certain areas with fixed ropes and not others. This was billed as a graduation climb for Obsidian Climb School graduates and we had two students from the 2016 class, one from 2015, and one from 2014. Marci was an invaluable assistant leader. She belayed the leader a few times, did traffic control at the crowded summit, and cleaned the rope and hardware from the upper pitch. One thing different about this climb was the swarms of flying ants at the summit. There were no bare spots to place our hands without squishing bugs. The ants got into our noses, ears, under our helmets, and into our clothes. Luckily they didn’t bite but still, it was not quite so pleasant to spend much time on the top. Back at the trailhead, we were happy, but dusty and tired, and after a few days’ rest, our climbers will be thinking about when they can do this one again.

Members & Guests signed-up & waitlisted

  • Number of spots on trip: 8
  • Number of spots available: 0
No. Status Full name Phone Transportation Needed? Trip Fee # Can Take?
1 Signed-Up Hamilton, Brian 541-343-6550 N 15
2 Signed-Up Hansen, Marci 360-852-2041 N 15
3 Signed-Up Osinga, Laura 541-337-9160 N 3
4 Signed-Up Moll, Kana 541-359-9942 N 15
5 Signed-Up Green, Kellie 541-232-3712 N 15
6 Signed-Up Rhodes, Mikel 541-206-7389 N 15
7 Signed-Up Thornton, Eric 541-206-8571 N 3
8 Signed-Up Pellegrom, Benjamin 541-207-4948 N 15