Calendar

Past Activity

Unicorn Peak

  • Start date: 04/16/2016

  • Start time: 12:00 AM

  • End date: 04/17/2016

  • End time: 11:59 PM

Description:

Over night trip. Leave Saturday morning and park at the Paradise gate. Hike/snowshoe/ski to the Snow Lake TH and another mile to set up camp. Sunday summit Unicorn.
Moderate angle snowfield approach to the low 5th class rock pinnacle. The pinnacle will be belayed and/or fixed line and a rappel is expected.
Depending on how much time we have and conditions, we may try to climb more than one route on the pinnacle or neighboring peaks.
LEADERS HAVE NOT CLIMBED THIS MOUNTAIN BEFORE.
Leader will contact climbing group at least a week prior to climb date to discuss car pooling schedules and meeting times.
Free entry during National Parks week!

  • Event Leader: Willhite Dalen

  • Assistant Leader:

  • Event category: Climbs

  • Area Type:

  • Departure Location: See Trip Description

  • Rating:

  • Roundtrip total drive miles: 530

  • Season: 2016

  • Permits Required:

  • Event Status: Passed

  • Supplies and Equipment Required: Food/water/10 essentials Helmet. Crampons/boots, ice axe. Harness, belay/rappel device, carabiners, 2 prusiks. Avalanche beacon, probe, shovel.

  • participant prerequisites:

  • Conditions:

  • Total Distance: 14

  • Member Fees: 3

  • Elevation Gain: 2451

  • Non-Member Fees: 15

  • Committee: Climbs

  • Junior member fees: —

Trip Report

The group rallied at the parking lot for Narada Falls since the gate for Stevens Pass Road was still closed for the season. Starting at 12:15 in the afternoon with a short and interesting wallow through a snowy trail to find a shortcut, we found ourselves at a very nicely paved road. Making good time, even with snowshoes on the unplowed section, the GPS and terrain landmarks was the only way to identify the Snow Lake Trailhead. Snowshoes were needed all the way to our camping area at Snow Lake; approximately 3 hours and a 5 mile hike from the car.
The first part of the route was visible from camp and avalanche risk was deemed low enough to continue the climb the next morning with an early start to avoid the warmest weather of the following day. Armed with ice axes and starting at about 4:30am, we kicked steps up the first chute (20-30 deg slope), but crampons were needed for the firmer and steeper second chute (30-40 deg).
The group made it to the rock pinnacle by 7am. “The Classic” route was lead by George, a variation of “The Roof” route (to the left of the roof) lead by Dalen, and a top rope was thrown down the East Side route. Rappel anchors were built off the dead tree and a large boulder over the “Classic” (recommended anchor).
After some plunge stepping and glissading we were in camp just after 10am to pack up and back at the cars by 1:30pm. It was a great group and a great trip.

Members & Guests signed-up & waitlisted

  • Number of spots on trip: 9
  • Number of spots available: 0
No. Status Full name Phone Transportation Needed? Trip Fee # Can Take?
1 Signed-Up Willhite, Dalen 406-570-4514 N 3
2 Signed-Up Williamson, George 541-531-7305 N 15
3 Signed-Up Willhite, Kerry 541-231-1457 N 3
4 Signed-Up Harris, Danneille 541-521-5807 N 3
5 Signed-Up Reiter, Maryanne 541-521-8472 N 3
6 Signed-Up Ellis, Alexander 917-880-6744 N 15
7 Signed-Up Bowen, Sara 662-816-7797 N 15
8 Signed-Up Larsen, Todd 509-949-0034 N 3
9 Signed-Up Phillips, Daniel 541-915-6263 N 3
10 Signed-Up Livingston, Jordan 412-721-0781 N 15